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I can report that, without question, Fiat produces the ugliest cars in Europe right now. Renault produces *strange* looking cars, but Fiats are just poorly done.

We made the mistake of heading the wrong way out of town this morning, and then trying to wind our way back around to the highway. No dice. We ended up spending an hour and a half, returning more or less to where we started, and then finally onto the M3 going east towards Romania. Lesson learned: consult the map before setting off. Ahem.

Right now we’re making 180kph towards Debrecen, making up a bit for lost time. We’ll see how long the good road holds out; this may be our last piece of “autopalya” for quite a while.
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Jun 25

I think I just figured out what happened to Pearl Jam. After their career fell flat in the US, they realized that since the Italians love cheesy pop rock, their best strategy was simply to learn Italian and attempt to become the next Zucchero. Unfortunately for us the void they had occupied was quickly filled by whatshisname, Dan Robinson? Right, Dave Matthews. And what a void it is. I can’t wait for him to learn Italian too. Please.

We had been headed east from Munich thru Linz towards Budapest, with the intention of stopping at ARS Electronica on the way, but instead detoured south to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. Wow. Beautiful small city, beautiful country. Try Hotel Emotec, ask for a room in the new wing. Restaurant Sokol served up an amazing Slovenian feast, complete with local “Teran” red wine. Very classy. Yesterday we drove around the countryside a bit, found a nice swimming hole, drove down some “Class 5″ one-lane dirt paths through the forest, and then back over the mountain to the city. All in all, Slovenia seems like a real hidden gem. Definitely worth a visit, and going back to.

This morning we drove SSE to Zagreb. So far not anywhere near as impressive… We might stay here this evening, or just move on to Budapest… I’m still trying to settle into this trip. I’m finding that I’ve got a bit of travel anxiety this time around, and also that my mental picture of the East is not pretty. In my head it’s literally scorched earth, dust, no green in sight. So far the reality is proving otherwise, although of course we haven’t really gotten that far yet.

Jun 23

Whatever you do, don´t try to use a French map to traverse Germany. I suppose that goes without saying. We left Strasbourg yesterday morning and stopped for lunch in Freiburg. Lovely town, although their sandwiches left a bit to be desired. Drove east from there through the Black Forest, thinking that we could cut across more or less directly to Munich. No chance. Great views, but it was very slow going, and near Lindau the road came to a complete halt. We spotted a sort of German Best Buy/Home Depot thing and stopped for a new iPod FM transmitter and a beer. I took a photo of fish in the pseudo-upscale “La Scala” Italian restaurant built into the big box, next to the entrance to the electronics store. Very strange. We got back on the Autobahn at about 7pm and after a few more detours finally made it to Munich about 10pm.

Today we burn the French map and replace it with a better one. Loren wants to stop at some monastery for beer and pork shoulder. I want to go to Linz to see the Museum of the Future. Good news: it turns out the Peugeot rental thing _does_ allow us to go to Odessa! At least, I think that´s good news.

When I booked my flight to Europe a couple of months ago, the only award tickets available were in first class. Fair enough, I thougt, it’s a free ticket, and I’ve never flown in the front of the plane.

Now that I’ve seen what’s on offer, I have to say you’d be crazy to pay for first class, at least on united. the service was fair at best, and no different from transcontinental business class. Food was the same as well – not bad, but nothing special. I have to believe that First on a European or Asian carrier would have been notably different. One amenity that I did appreciate to the fullest was the lie-flat bed – I slept 7 hours or so and woke up in frankfurt feeling not half bad.

A couple of *very* close train connections and now I’m on the TGV, almost to strasbourg!

Jun 08

Remember when you were a kid and folks would ask you, “what’s your favorite food?” Well, I know what mine is. Dino kale, aka cavolo nero, or black kale, or whatever else you call it. That’s it.

Cavolo Nero on BBC

I usually cook up a bunch twice a week or so, and I’m eating some now. The basic recipe is:

2 heads dino kale
2-4 cloves garlic, sliced
olive oil
red pepper flakes
sherry vinegar
lemon juice

Trim the “veins” out of the kale leaves, if they’re big. Bunch up all the leaves together and chop them crossways every inch-and-a-half or so. Throw all the kale into the salad spinner or colander and wash well. Don’t drain the kale, leave it wet. Heat up a big pan with some oil in it. Throw a few leaves in (not all of them) when the oil is hot (I got this trick from the Chez Panisse Vegetables book; it flavors the oil). Let those first few leaves cook a bit, then a bit more oil, and the garlic in the oil. Let the garlic cook for 30 seconds, then throw in all the rest of the kale. Throw in a little extra water, or white wine if you have some open. Add some sea salt and red pepper flakes, however much you like. Cover and cook the kale over medium heat, stirring frequently and adding water or wine as necessary so it doesn’t dry out. Add some lemon juice and/or sherry vinegar when it’s about 2/3 done. Cook until the leaves are tender enough, but still al dente. If they start to lose their bright green color, they are *done*, get ‘em off the heat.

To the basic kale I add one or more of the following: one or two spicy Italian sausages (Bi-Rite has the best), a can of white Canellini beans, a handful of orechiette pasta (cooked separately). Or none of those, if I just want the veg.

Kale it up!

I’m going to Europe in week or so, so I call Cingular / AT&T to sign up for an international calling plan. Calling is $0.99/minute, great, that’s bad enough. But text messages are $0.50 each and data — any data, including emails on the BlackBerry — is $0.02/Kb. Or you can sign up for the unlimited international data plan for only $69/month, but it’s a one-year commitment with an early termination penalty of $200 or something.

This kind of crap makes me so f**king mad. I’d be happy to pay the $69 fee, but why in the world would I want to sign up for an international data plan for an entire year?!? And why do they think it’s good business to try to force me into thinking that — even with that ridiculous constraint — it _still_ might be a better deal than running up data charges at 2 cents a kilobyte? And 50 cents for a text message?!?! what?!?

This is of course why I used to go to so much trouble to buy unlocked phones, but the last one I got cost nearly $500, and service based in the UK isn’t exactly cheap, especially if you’re roaming all over Europe. And of course I would actually like to be able to _use_ the data features while I’m over there… There has to be a better way! Is there?

Another one of those “thanks anyway, Microsoft” moments. You know how if you have a couple of images on a page in Powerpoint, and you paste in another one, and Powerpoint oh-so-helpfully f**king RESIZES and REARRANGES all the other images on the page in a futile attempt to make them all fit? How incredibly idiotic. And how do you turn it off? Google Answers doesn’t know. It turns out that the “feature” is called “automatic layout”, and the checkbox to turn it off is buried in the in the AutoCorrect Options dialog. Makes sense, no? Of course, since, AutoCorrect is a feature that corrects your spelling, why not name this waste of code “AutoLayout”, and throw it into the bottom of the “AutoFormat as you type” subtab of the AutoCorrect Options dialog, under the heading “Apply as you work”. Right. Perfect. Well, now you know. Amazing, the stupidity. Amazing!

The actually _is_ a Microsoft product that I _do_ like though. I just replaced my 10+ year old Compaq clickety-clack keyboard with a new MS Comfort Curve 2000, and I like it alot. Not only was it the cheapest one, but it has just enough of a curve with being one of those full-on “ergonomic” keyboards. The keys have a good feel and are pretty quiet. It’s got a play/pause and mute controls that work with iTunes, and a calculator key over the numeric keypad. It doesn’t have a bunch of other whiz-bang “media” keys or anything, but those are all useless anyhow. Nor or it wireless, but what’s the use of getting rid of the wire leading to your keyboard if you have to worry about replacing the batteries? Whoo, go Microsoft keyboard division.